Slippery when WET.


During the first few weeks of our trip we considered the weather to be adequate, but with room for improvement.  Well, we were wrong.  The past week has been wet, wet, wet.  For the past 6 days, we’ve experienced daily heavy rain and WV-esque humidity.  Plus, limestone gets SLICK.  Think of cleaning your porcelain sink with a year’s worth of toothpaste stains and 409 cleaner.  Although the weather has placed a squeeze on sending routes, the weather has actually been a bit of a blessing as we’ve been able to branch out to other activities in addition to the enjoyment of just being on an island in the Aegean.

Typically, our day begins with Nescafe or a cappuccino from the bakery down the street.  I’ll pick out a baguette while Rachel will grab some real Greek yogurt and some farm fresh Kalymnian eggs.  We’ll lounge for a bit, fill up water and cultivate our minds with the various books we have lying about.  Lately, we’ve been doing quite a bit of snorkeling–and while I am no scuba diver–the water is crystal clear with millions of small colorful fish swimming about the rocks and eel-grass.

Cultivating my young mind and waiting for the limestone to dry.
Greek mid-morning snack: Cappucino, Greek yogurt with Kalymnian Thyme Honey
Wishing I had a spear gun and flippers.

After relaxing most of the day, we’ve been heading up to Grande Grotta and Panorama trying to bring down some classique rigs as our trip comes to a close.  Two days ago I squeaked out an onsight of the 40 meter 12d extension to Carpe Diem–a mega classic 10d pitch with continuous blobs, colonnettes and flakes.  Yesterday I finally got the opportunity to try one of islands mega-classics, Priapos (12d).  Priapos is the first route I saw upon our arrival as a Russian lady was lowering from the lip of the cave, 100 feet from her belayer.  (On a side note: this lady was from St. Petersburg and shared a lot of facial features with my sister).  It didn’t even look real.  As has been the case with most of these steep tufa marathons, navigation and maintaining creativity within the various rests is incredibly challenging.  After a 45-minute bout, I found myself inebriated with a trifecta of fatigue, sweat and joy of clipping the chains.  Rachel, wisely, is waiting to give the route a try tomorrow after a day of dryness and rest.  Here’s a few pictures of Priapos Verm took.  If you’re contemplating a trip to Kalymnos, I can unequivocally say that this one route is absolutely worth the trip.

Slowly working up Priapos in the evening light
Which silhouette is the climber?
HAPPY EDDIE! Kalymnos makes lowering look cooler than the climbing.
I typically warm up by playing with my friend, Diablo. Here I am doing some bicep curls with her face. Sometimes I wonder why people give me funny looks at the crag.
This is Rachel's climbing mascot. I named him Herman. If you've ever climbed with her you'd know why this is funny.

Our nights ordinarily consist of sampling the various restaurants with friends we’ve met during the course of the trip.  The cuisine is spectacular.  Fresh octopus, snapper, leg of lamb and various Greek plates I can’t pronounce have made their way across our palates.      We’ll swash our grub down with some house wine and finish it off with some honey balls.  Yes, Simeon/Carolyn the Aegean Tavern is the bomb.

Honey balls are BALLA!

Speaking of new friends, one of which–a climbing legend I hadn’t met before this trip-John Sherman, has decided to move in to our crib for the remainder of the week.  His opinions regarding climbing, style and tact have sparked various debates with myself, Rachel, Pat and Jessa. Here’s a quick example:

Verm to Rachel: “You’ve never climbed a pitch in your life.”

Rachel to Verm: “I’ve onsighted plenty.”

Verm: “Were you naked, have rock shoes, chalk, a rope, tick marks or pre-hung quick draws?”

Rachel: “That’s bull–it’s the standard of the day.”

Verm: “It’s actually the poor excuse the media has told you is the modern-climber’s method.”

OR:

Verm to himself looking at latest issue of Climbing mag with TC/KJ on Muir Wall.  “Toughest route EVER?!!??  REALLY??!!  How many people have DIED trying it for CHRISSAKE!”

VERM the Almighty and and Roger-man

This exchange is occuring between 5-foot-nothing Rachel and a mountain of a man who’s climbed 37 years, wears a helmet bouldering and carries two chalkbags a la John Wayne’s six-guns in True Grit.  (Jeff–I told him about the “Manpus” as a potential new climbing move in 2nd ed. of Better Bouldering)  …and on and on.

Now, we’ve got 2.5 climbing days left with good weather forecasted and my belly’s hurting for some octopi.  Stay tuned.


7 responses to “Slippery when WET.”

  1. For the record, that isnt exactaly how my conversations with Verm go… but we do get into it alot. And its fun. 🙂

  2. Looks like we missed you guys while you were here, but mid-October saw some unluckily wet weather on Kalymnos this year. For the past week or so it has been bluebird skies with just enough chill in the air. Nice warm up, I’ll have to try that one tomorrow when I see Diablo.

  3. Hey! I’ve heard a lot about sunset alley, and am dying to climb there. where can I find the beta? We’re headed down to st george this weekend to enjoy the warmth and the rock, and would love to swing by. Thanks for your help!

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