Double-rig day!


Two days ago we awoke to a pitter-patter of a light rainstorm.  Considering we took a rest day on the previous day, there was no way I was not going rock climbing.  At first I thought we should abandon ship and go to the Grande Grotto, a gigantic cave instead of returning to Odyssey for Sardonique and Marci Marc.  While walking down the road, Rachel brought up the important point that some friends of hers lost out on a perfectly good day of rock climbing in similar conditions.  So, we kept meandering down the road and up the hill to Odyssey.  And when I say “meander”–I mean a grandma’s pace would have been quicker.  5 Euros were hiking up the narrow trail SUPER SLOW, when I tried to pass they would not comply with my “Sorry” or “Excuse Me” or “Pardon”, so I just fumed for about 20 minutes.  Apparently that is a good tactic because by the time we arrived at the cliff I was ready to crush rigs.  Due to impending precipitation I tied in with the intention of warming up on the first half of the rig.  I was feeling quite good arriving at the crux and decided to try it anyway.  Previously, I had figured out some deep lock-offs on small down-pulls instead of using the standard triple-gaston method through the crux bit.  Apparently that beta was iron-clad and I hiked through the 20 feet of thin crimps and was at the rest.  On my way up the 12b outro, I brushed a loose choss-brick and almost sniped a euro from on high.  Oops, so sorry!

Sardonique 8a+ (13c), Elodie Saracco photo

Rachel was more patient and decided to warm up properly.  Her first try on Marci Marc ended just shy of the “game-over” jug 100 feet up and at the last bolt–identical to her last 3 tries!  While I was not doubting Twin Cannon’s abilities to shake her way up the pitch, a Euro strongly suggested she climb faster.  With that advice in mind and proclaiming that “I’m going to send this thing next try” I was pretty sure she’d do it.  Sure enough, Rachel climbed very well through the 100 feet of thuggery and arrived on the crux undercling.  She bumped to a pinch, bumped again to a crimp–stayed low on it and reached around to the brain coral sloper.  Matched it.  Fired out right to the jug.  Game over.  This was our first time sending our rigs on the same day, very exciting!

Marci Marc 7c+ (13a), Elodie Saracco photo
Marci Marc
Marci Marc 7c+, Elodie Saracco photo
Marci Marc 7c+
Marci Marc 7c+, Elodie Saracco photo
Double-Send day!
Double send day–BAWSE!

Yesterday we decided to move Crag-du-jour to the most impressive cliff of the island-the Grande Grotta.  We both sampled and hung our quicks on the stupendous Fun de Chichunne (8a) a full 150 foot roof pitch on amazing tufas and blobs.  It is without a doubt, the craziest sport pitch I’ve ever climbed on.  C’est bizarre!  The last 30 feet of the route you are literally stemming and grappling tree trunk tufas that are hanging from the ceiling.  Super fun!

Grande Grotta, the new crag-du-jour

Amusingly, part of climbing in the Grotta is fighting the goats from stealing your lunch. Here I am practicing for bow season back in WV.
Here is Diablo snooping for Rachel's lunch, lucky for me, I ate it hours ago! HAHAA!

As to be expected, our briskets got slow-cooked like a 4th of July pig as a result of all that cave climbing.  We picked up our scooter and headed out to do some caving. Check out the pics!

Entrance to the CAVE
Down the ladder!
Formation inside the cave.
Rachel really liked the cave!
Cave formation
Zoo animal of probable primate species at the cave.
View out the cave

Now, we’re sitting in a coffee shop drinking espresso in Massouri plotting our return tomorrow to the Grotta.  Maybe we’ll head out the fish market in Pothia this afternoon.  Hope all is well back home!


7 responses to “Double-rig day!”

  1. 1. You don’t need to say “excuse me” to Euros. Just push past them and then set up your belay directly on top of theirs.

    2. How did you manage to shave your goatee and change your shirt between having your picture taken on Sardonique and your picture taken with Rachel post double send day? I suspect picture posing!

    3. I want some pictures of tufa hand jamming!

    • the climbing photos were taken the day before the sends…. jeez chad. such a buzzkill. And actually, euros respond tbe best if you just throw rocks at them.

  2. You guys are just too cool for school! Please tell me you at least tried to ride one of those goats?! Their horns make perfect handle bars.

  3. This trip is looking pretty sick so far, I especially like seeing all that blue water in the background. That zoo animal picture is classic.

  4. euro sniping on kalymnos is a delicate art involving much foresight..one must anticipate passing on the windy roads leading to the crags and while maintaining balance on your moped rachel jams a stick-clip in the spokes of their vespa..especially dramatic given the blue water in the background

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