“The Creek”… “The Red”… “Smiff” … “Squish”…  “The Ditch”.  I think crags get these shortened nicknames in hopes of capturing all the nostalgia and specialness of an area in just a few words; when in reality, no words can truly express an experience or a place.  Climbing routes in all styles can further enhance the fullness of ones experience with “The Creek”, and also further define the experience one associates with the affectionate title.  Our last day in “The Creek” meant that we both wanted to climb something that was a new experience, a new style that the Creek could offer.  We decided to “two crag it” so that I could run up and climb “Annanaki” (something ive wanted to climb for quite sometime) and Ed could climb an offwidth called “Big Guy”.  I had tried Annanuki earlier in the trip, at the end of the day, in a last ditch onsight effort at sunset.  Located on the backside of a leaning pillar, and zig-zagging through all crack sizes from #3 camalot to fingers, its quite awesome.  Unfortunately, somewhere between fatigue, sloppy footwork, and darkness, i blew my onsight somewhere near the chains, and hence why we needed to return to this awesome crack before we could leave.  We powered up the steep approach to Optimator Wall with just a 60m cord, and light Annanuki rack.  Not the most difficult climb I have ever completed, especially armed with memorized gear and handhold placements from a few days earlier, it served to be a blissful warmup on one of the BEST cracks I have ever climbed.  I guess thats why its considered a “classic”.  Its super spor-tay, not in the sense of being runout, but in the sense that 1/3 of the climbing involves the use of face holds.  In my opinion, this is part of what makes the climb so diverse and enjoyable to climb.  Its not the same move over and over again, a la Chainsaw Massacre, or some of the other splitter masterpieces located out here in the desert.  Each brings its own uniqueness, and FUN.

 

After enjoying all the fun Annanuki had to offer, we quickly bolted to the Battle of the Bulge Cliff which was the location of something else both of us were itching to climb: “Big Guy”.  Ed has been to the creek 5? times now, and somehow he has avoided trying his hand at any offwith splitters.  So, in order to leave the Creek with no regrets,  we hiked up to the base of this wide gaping splitter and vomited out a pack full of cams all bigger than my face.  To me, i looked up and thought: “This is going to be so easy, im just going to shove my gigantic soccer leg in side that thing, and ride my knee all the way to the top”.   Then, without any hesitation… Eddie racked up, and embarked up the “Big Guy”.

 

Personally, just an estimate based on visual inspection and personal experience… but i am convinced that his rack weighed more than both his legs combined.  Just a rough guess. 😛

The start of the “Big Guy” is splitter #3 Camalots (which is perfect fists for both Ed and I), and quickly transitions into #4’s.  The perfect fist section was cruizer for Eddie, as was the #4’s.  Though his legs are not large in girth, he still was not able to get his knee in the #4 section.  So he stacked butterflies and stood on good feet until he could sneak his monkey leg into the crack.  This was probably somewhere in the middle of  the upper section.

Stacking becomes mandatory near the top of this beast, and even though you can get a leg in, its probably the most exhausting “no hands rest” imaginable.  The bulk of the climbing is hand fist stacking and walking the knee up inch by inch.  Its amazing…

Spending a week at the Creek was a great start to our trip, and “grounding” in many ways.  Its somewhat of a “novelty” area, but what I really think that means is that its unique.  Which is pretty freaking cool if you ask me.  Its great to climb something that is unlike anything else Ive ever climbed.  Usually it means I learned something new.  On “Big Guy”, I learned a number of new things:

1) What “butterfly” stacking is — and that its pretty bomber.

2) Offwidths are much harder than they look — even if you can stick your knee in.

3) How to hand-fist stack.  One of the more unique and awesome type of jams ive done.

4) My boyfriend is a complete BAWSE.

Upon returning to our campsite after our final day of climbing and dodging sand tornados, we found our tent to be a little wonkey.  At first, we thought it was trashed… but upon further inspection, it was fully in tact, save a few tent poles that now resemble Apollo’s serpentine wiggle walk.  We spent our last night in the asymmetrical dome before bailing the next morning to the St. George crags.

More posts to follow on climbing here in St. George!

Mega shout-out to our little homie Andrew “SAWSE BAWSE” Nimmer for onsighting Dracula right in the face of all the hippies camping at the Red!  Nice job, Dawg! Your in the company of only a small handful of other climbers to have achieved this feat, all of which have climbed 5.15! Looks like you’re destined for greatness!  Haters be learners, the Sawse Bawse has spoken!